White Castle, Llanvetherine...a mile of lane walking from the bus
In the opening pages of Slow Travel in the Marches you soon find out that I am somewhat enchanted by the rural borderland bus. Why? Simply because it brings together all manner of folk on their way to market, a steady flow between village and town with a smattering of walkers making their way into the countryside.There's another good reason. Travelling on the bus allows you to sit back and enjoy the scenery and the views; this new cross border route from St Weonwards in Herefordshire to Abergavenny on market day will not disappoint on that count.
Equally important on this run is that the bus passes directly by two of three notable Norman castles (as linked by the Three Castles walk) namely Skenfrith and Grosmont. It also offers access to nearby White Castle at Llanvetherine, a steady climb of about a mile from the bus stop, well turning to be precise, for formal bus stops are few and far between on this service. Just stick your hand out anywhere reasonable and it stops!
The route taken by the new market day service, the 438, which I have decided to call the Three Castles Rider, is an intriguing one. It starts at St Weonards (allowing a connection from the 36 Hereford to Monmouth bus) then calls in at Broad Oak and Garway Common before dipping down a back lane to Skenfrith, by the Bell Inn and through the village. It then climbs above the River Monnow to the one time medieval garrison township of Grosmont. Then the bus follows back lanes through to Cross Ash and Llanvetherine before before descending into Abergavenny beneath the haunting backbone of Skirrid Fawr; this impressive mass engages the eye throughout the latter part of the journey.
The owner driver, Ian Phillips, reckons that there hasn't been a bus on the route for 20 years and the last bus from Grosmont was about 8-10 years ago. So, it will be an uphill struggle to encourage local people back on board after all of these years, but Ian is a determined man and wants to give something back to the local communities he knows well. That's where we come in... visitors on board will be more than welcome and can help to sustain this truly rural market day bus.
Walkers alight at Llanvetherine for Offa's Dyke Path
The 438 or dare I say Three Castles Rider operates on Tuesdays only; it is one borderland bus worth sorting out so here's how you can get the best out of your day.
- Catch the 0840 out of Hereford Railway Station (Country Bus Station, Broad Street) for St Weonards (stop by the church/village store)
- Board the 438 bus to Abergavenny at 0930. You'll arrive in Abergavenny Bus Station at 1030 in time for coffee and a wander between the street stalls
- Then you can catch the Stagecoach X3 back to Hereford from Abergavenny Bus Station at 1130,1330, 1500 or 1600
- English and Welsh bus passes are accepted on cross boundary trips although a fare is required on the 0840 36 bus as it is before 0930
- Car users can, of course, do a return trip to St Weonards arriving back at about 1415
- Timetable enquiries available of Herefordshire Council Bus Travel website or the operator phone I&S Coaches on 01432 264968
